BASIC SKIN CARE

CLEANSERS - It is important to use the right cleanser because it determines how your skin is going to react to everything else you put on it. Over cleaning and drying out your skin can cause problems a moisturizer cannot correct. Using a cold cream type cleanser can clog your pores and leave a film on your skin which makes it hard for your other products to be absorbed. For all skin types I suggest a gentle water-soluble cleanser that only contains water and one or two cleansing agents. Be careful that it doesn't contain any irritants.

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TONERS also referred to as astringents, clarifiers, fresheners, refiners or tonics do not do much more than maybe help reduce inflammation or add water binding agents or help remove the last traces of makeup. It may possibly put some lightweight moisturizing ingredients onto the skin. They do not tone or balance the skin. They also do not close or deep clean pores. Some toners claim to reduce oil production – that is controlled mainly by hormonal activity. Irritant – free toners are an excellent skin care step for all skin types as long as they are a blend of water – binding agents, natural moisturizing factors, antioxidants, lightweight emollients and gentle cleansing agents. For some skin types a toner may be the only moisturizer you need to use. After cleansing apply your toner to a large cotton ball and gently stroke it over the face and neck.

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EXFOLIATORS are essential for skin health and most all skin types can benefit from exfoliating. Exfoliation helps the dead surface skin cells shed allowing room for the lower layers of new skin to move up. Removing the damaged outer layer is an essential skin care basic. The skin types that need to be cautious about exfoliating are those with extremely sensitive skin, older skin and those with skin diseases or skin disorders such as rosacea, eczema, dermatitis or seborrhea. There are basically 2 types of exfoliating: mechanical and topical. There are lots of “mechanical” exfoliators out there on the market; scrubs, soaps, masks, peels, sponges and brushes. If you feel you need a good exfoliation a simple combination of plain old baking soda mixed in a small amount of cleanser will work. The problem with mechanical scrubs is the scrubbing action is mainly on the surface and may cause irritation to the skin. Topically, there are two primary ways to exfoliate: AHAs or BHAs. The most commonly used AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids) are glycolic or lactid acids. There is only one BHA (beta hydroxy acid or salicylic acid). Removing this top layer of skin can improve skin texture, unclog pores and allow moisturizers to better absorb. There is a good deal of research showing that the use of glycolic acid can help in the appearance of skin discolorations, increase collagen production and help reinforce the barrier function of the skin. The difference between AHAs and BHA is that AHAs are water-soluble while BHA is lipid or oil-soluble. This characteristic of BHA allows it to get through to the oil in the pores and exfoliate the built up skin cells inside the oil gland therefore the BHA is recommended for use where blackheads and breakout are the issue. AHAs are much less able to do this as they can’t penetrate the fat content of the oil. AHAs are recommended for sun-damaged, thickened, dry skin where blemishes are not a problem. AHAs work best at 5%-8% concentration and BHA works best at 1%-2% concentration. Be careful of higher concentrations as they can increase irritation and exfoliation thereby actually harming the skin. Depending on your sensitivity you can apply AHAs or BHA once or twice daily. AHAs or BHA should not be purchased when they include other irritating ingredients such as alcohol, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus, citrus or mint. When you exfoliate the skin it leaves it more susceptible to sun damage. Always use sunscreen protection with your AHA or BHA.

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TRETINOIN- (Retin-A , Renova, etc.) is a prescription only product that is not an exfoliant in that it does not affect the surface of the skin; it affects the dermis, where new skin cells are produced. While these products do not erase wrinkles they can do wonderful things for the health of your skin. Renova is very expensive but other generic brands are about ½ the price and just as effective. You can use AHAs or BHA with tretinoin. Try them in different combinations to see how your skin reacts. For example the AHA or BHA in the morning and the tretinoin in the evening. Some people can tolerate both at the same time. Again – remember to always use a sunscreen when using these products to protect your sun sensitive skin.

** If you are using an AHA/BHA and/or a tretinoin, discontinue use for 3 days prior to your microdermabrasion treatment and do a test patch before using these products again for up to 3 days following your treatment.

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DISINFECTANTS- For those of you that experience break out Benzoyl peroxide is the best disinfectant to consider for controlling bacteria and is sold in 2.5%, 5% and 10% concentrations. If it doesn’t seem to be doing the job you may have to try a prescription topical antibiotic. Always start with the lower concentration as it is much less irritating and can be just as effective as a higher concentration. It just depends on how stubborn your bacteria is. Do not use benzoyl peroxide in combination with a retinoid (any vitamin A product) prescribed by your doctor.

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SKIN LIGHTENERS- If you're concerned with hyperpigmentation (discoloration on the skin) it has been shown that a product in order to be effective should contain hydroquinone or kojic acid at a concentration of 2-4%. The 4% is only available by prescription. They can be used alone or in combination with glycolic acid. These topical treatments are successful for discolorations that are superficial such as sun spots or age spots. Results are usually seen in 8 – 12 weeks when used with an effective sunscreen. Another important fact regarding products containing hydroquinone or kojic acid is that they need to be packaged in a dark container so that light cannot be filtered in. Exposure to light can make the product unstable and turn it brown.

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MOISTURIZERS - Not everyone needs or should use a moisturizer and especially those of you that have oily or acne-prone skin. People with oily skin have their own natural built in moisturizing system. The only reason to use a moisturizer is if you have dry or wrinkled skin. Moisturizers can smooth your skin not change wrinkles! Moisturizers should not be overused. They can clog your pores and blackheads can develop. Dead skin cells get trapped and have a harder time naturally sloughing off which can leave your skin looking dull. Overdoing it can actually prevent the skin from repairing itself. It is best to use a light weight moisturizer with a sunscreen for day use.

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VITAMIN E is one of the most well researched vitamins for skin health and the most well known antioxidant. It can be taken orally as a supplement or used in skin care products. It functions in the body and on the skin to protect cells from free radical damage and researchers have theorized that this can slow down the aging process. Free Radical Damage is basically what is bad for the skin. The main culprits are oxygen, uv rays, pollution and smoke. Free radical damage can cause deterioration of the skin’s support structures which increases loss of elasticity. According to research, antioxidants can slow down this damage somewhat but to what extent is still unknown.

Research also indicates that it is possible to stimulate your skin to produce more collagen and elastin, but not by putting these on the skin. AHAs, BHA, tretinoin and treatments such as microdermabrasion can all provide that benefit.

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SUNSCREEN without question, is the most basic and essential part of any skin care regime. No other skin care product can influence the health of the skin as much as this. There are two types of rays you need to be concerned with: UVB and UVA. The UVB rays are the ones that cause damage to your skin in the form of a tan or a sunburn. The UVA rays are weaker than the UVB but there are about 100 times as many and they also have a negative effect on the skin. UVB rays cannot get through glass so you can’t burn while sitting in your car or next to a window but UVA can get through these surfaces. Thus the reason you need to have your skin protected at all times in daylight hours. In addition to damaging the immune system, the sun also destroys collagen, thickens the skin’s exterior, slows down the skin’s blood supply and reduces the skin’s elasticity. Sun is almost always the cause of premature wrinkles, hyperpigmentation (discoloration) and skin cancer.

SPF stands for “sun protection factor” but the SPF # only tells you how long the product will protect you from getting a sunburn. It does not tell you how strong it is. You also need to know that a lot of sunscreens don’t protect you from the harmful UVA rays. In order to get this added protection your sunscreen needs to contain one of the following “active” ingredients: titanium dioxide, avobenzone or zinc oxide. Ideally your SPF should be a minimum of 15 and contain one of these ingredients. Applying an SPF of 15 means you can stay out in the sun 15 times longer than normal without turning pink. In other words if you can stay out for about 20 minutes before you start to burn, with an SPF of 15 you can now stay out 15 x 20 minutes which equals 300 minutes or 5 hours before you need to reapply it. Your sunscreen should always be applied last. If you wear foundation and are able to smooth it over your skin lightly, not wiping off your sunscreen there is minimal risk that you will dilute the sunscreen underneath. If you’re worried about this there are lots of foundations on the market that contain sunscreen. Again check the active ingredients. If your foundation is the only product you’re using with sunscreen be sure to apply it evenly and liberally. Sunscreens that claim to be waterproof are really only water resistant. They should be reapplied every 40 – 80 minutes if you are sweating or swimming. Always apply your sunscreen 15 – 20 minutes before going outdoors so that it has a chance to be absorbed.

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INGREDIENT LISTS are important. Natural ingredients – Many cause allergies, irritation and skin sensitivities. For example – citrus- you get lemon juice on a small cut and it stings like crazy because it’s irritating to skin. While vegetable or plant oils may sound better for the skin, certain forms of silicones are just as beneficial and offer impressive results for the skin. Besides which, once the “natural” ingredients are extracted from the source and mixed into a cosmetic are they still really “natural”? The first 3-4 ingredients are usually the bulk of the product. The lastly listed ingredients are almost always only very small amounts that could barely make a difference.

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Routine for BLEMISH CONTROL

There are four main causes of breakout. They are hormonal activity / overproduction of oil / irregular or excessive shedding of dead skin cells, both on the skin’s surface and the inside of the pore / buildup of bacteria in the pore. When the pore becomes plugged with oil and dead skin cells and bacteria are present a blemish is usually the result. Effective treatment involves reducing oil on the skin, eliminating buildup of skin cells on the surface and in the pore and killing bacteria. You have to be concerned about the entire area of the face not just that single pimple.

1. Cleanse the skin gently using your water based cleanser. Remember to use one that doesn’t contain ingredients that can clog your pores or irritate your skin.
2. Toning your skin is optional.
3. Kill the bacteria by using benzoyl peroxide.
4. Exfoliate using an effective BHA, preferably in a gel or liquid form.
5. Tretinoin product next if you are using one.
6. Absorb the excess oil using a clay based mask or simply a mask of Milk of Magnesia (plain not mint or other flavors). This is usually done in the evening.
7. Skin Lightener if you are using one.
8. Antioxidant if you are using one.
9. Moisturizer on dry areas only in the evening if required and Sunscreen during the day.

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Routine for NORMAL TO DRY SKIN

1. Cleanse the skin gently using your water based cleanser. Remember to use one that doesn’t contain ingredients that will dry your skin.
2. Toning your skin is optional.
3. Exfoliate using an effective AHA in a moisturizing base preferably once or twice daily (as long as you don’t find your skin drying out) – usually in the evening.
4. Tretinoin product next if you are using one.
5. Skin lightener once or twice daily (as long as you don’t find your skin drying out) if you are using one.
6. Antioxidant if you are using one. 7. Apply a light layer of moisturizer in the evening if required and Sunscreen during the day.

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